Journal Updates

There were 3 different Delco Moraine caliper designs used from 65-82, each having different casting numbers. All 3 caliper designs are interchangeable, so many early cars may now have later calipers fitted. Original, 'First Design' 1965 calipers would have a casting number starting with #546.

First Design: 1965 – 1966 (and some very early '67s)
Front: Left #5465954; Right #5465952 – Rear: Left #5465902; Right #5465905

Second Design: 1967 – 1971 (and some very early '72s)
Front: Left #5452270; Right #5452273 – Rear: Left #5452281; Right #5452284

Third Design:  1972 – 1982 (the most common calipers)
Front: Left #5473795; Right #5473796 – Rear: Left #5473806; Right #5473807

Some months after fitting the new front tyres, I purchased new rear tyres. These were 215/75R15 Mastercraft WSW — slightly wider than the 205s on the front. I purchased the rear tyres from a different supplier, but they're still made in Mexico. When I washed off the blue protective coating the white walls were perfectly white. I'm now thinking that the issue with the white walls discolouring could be just the 'luck of the draw'.

When I shorted out the alternator, it wasn't the first time the engine loom had been cooked. With the engine out of the car, I removed the engine loom and found a lot of melted and cracked insulation. I purchased and installed a brand new Lectric loom from the USA, so engine loom is now as good as new.

‍Since writing this post, I've replaced the front tyres with another set of Mastercraft white walls. I found that the new tyres started to get a similar yellow stain on them as soon as the blue protective coating was washed off. Interestingly, the rear tyres (which are 10 years old) have perfectly white stripes, there's no discolouration at all.

Being so old, the rear tyres were made in the USA, whereas the old front tyres and the new ones I purchased are made in Mexico. My theory is that the quality of the white stripe on the Mexican tyres just isn't the same as the old US-made tyres. Has anyone else had a similar experience?

I've been running the car with the coated manifolds for over a year now, and I'm convinced the ceramic coating has reduced under-bonnet temperatures. I also think it has helped reduce fuel percolation, which was an occasional annoyance when restarting the car. The coating is also very tough, with no evidence of chipping, flaking or discolouration. The dark grey colour has also remained unchanged.

Before removing your old fuel pump, make sure you have ALL the parts you need to fit the new one. The size of the inlet and outlet fittings on the Carter and Airtex fuel pumps varies a lot — I had three fuel pumps and none of them used the same size fittings. Don't assume (as I did) that the new fuel pump will be able to use your existing fittings. I discovered this the hard way when I had already fitted the new pump only to discover I didn't have the correct outlet fitting.

Common automotive pipe fittings include AN, UNF, NPT and BSP.

• AN and UNF fittings use SAE (parallel) threads.
• NPT fittings have tapered (conical) threads and seal by an interference fit at the threads. They require a thread sealant.
• BSP fittings have straight (parallel) threads.

Also be very careful with fuel lines with flared ends. The fitting that they screw in to must be designed to accept a flared end to create a seal, otherwise when you start the engine fuel is going to squirt out all over your engine bay (ask me how I know this).

This exercise proved to be a complete failure. I left the manifolds for several days before reinstalling, so I was confident the paint had plenty of time to dry. I fired the car up and headed out for a drive, and by the time I'd reached the first intersection there was smoke pouring from the vents on either side of the engine bay. I guessed this was the paint 'curing', and the smoke did clear after a few minutes on the road.

When I got back to the garage (after around an hour of driving) the finish on the manifolds looked matt and powdery. Once they had cooled down enough I gave them a wipe with a cloth, thinking that the powdery substance would wipe off to reveal my beautifully cured finish. What I saw instead was the raw cast iron! The paint had been cooked off completely on most of the manifold, with only the cooler sections (like the alternator mounting bracket) showing any trace of the new paint.

It's entirely possible that I messed up the application, but I was so careful. I decided that I was not going to try again, I was done with painting manifolds. I now have a barely-used can of Bill Hirsch High Temp paint for sale if anyone is interested.

‍Time to bite the bullet and get the job done properly.